It might not be Singapore, but it's something!

It's been around a few weeks now, but Singapore Restaurant is officially my FAVOURITE new eating place in Nuku'alofa. Why? Let me break it down for you. It's cheap. It's cooler inside than it is outside. It has a drinks fridge. And it's plugged in. It has a food warmer. With a heat lamp. And its plugged in. And it actually keeps food warm. It's got tables and chairs, tissues, good lighting, and its CLEAN. There's at least 10 reasons to try it out, and that I haven't even gotten to the food!

Yes, granted, Singapore Restaurant has the usual suspects on the menu:  Kentucky and Manioke, Burgers, Fish 'n' chips.  And no, they don't have the list of asian dishes I'd have loved and expected to feature in a place named as such (kway teow, mabo dofu, singapore fried noodles, laksa...), but the point is, everything this place does IS...GOOOD!
                        
And yes there is a certain familiar comfort in the fact that there are some things that never change about asian kitchens (with or without the requisite dishes) such as the neon lighting, efficient service, tissues, plastic chairs, cans of drink with foreign contents that taste better than you can imagine (yes, try the pineapple with coconut chunks - sweet and chewy all at once - only $1.70)  and a rice cooker big enough to bathe a baby in.

So, let's recall my last visit. We arrived at 630pm on a Thursday. People were already eating, and the trade was steady. A good sign.  We ordered the fish 'n' chips, and a burger.  And we did have to wait a bit, but I took this as a good sign that everything was being freshly prepared. And I was right. The fish was fresh and crispy, the burger still glistening with fry fat and goodness.  The chips were hot and crispy (maybe they should invest/recreate KFC chicken salt - that would be a perfect addition). And we were happy.  And there was the cute addition of the cucumber rounds hollowed out to hold this wonderful garlic mayo.

After my friend and neighbour from Fangaloto, Tatiana, uttered with the utmost sincereity, "It's not 'like' KFC hot wings, it IS KFC hot wings" I just had to try the kentucky. And Tats, I think you are almost right! It's hot, spicy and crispy. And you get fries! All I needed was a moist towelette and I would be seeing visions of the Colonel in the Kingdom. Well. One can only dream.





















Check it out:
*Hala Fatafehi, first intersection past NZ Immigration /Royco building if you're heading towards the lagoon

Sabrina....how I love thee....

One of the best things I have come to appreciate about living on a tropical island away from your family and friends has to be having them come to visit.  Not only do I get to share the experiences and tastes that have me talking to myself and see me returning for the second day in a row for a little something something, but I get to try those places I haven't quite plucked up the courage to on my own.

SABRINAS falls into the latter category - a bbq outlet I knew was amazing, having many Saturday mornings eaten its delicious product from the makeshift car trailer-come-bbq-rotisserie, but  one whose 'real home' I had never quite managed to get to.  Blame the one way road system,  the queues of hungry Tongans which are forever lined up at lunchtime (or anytime actually), or just the fact that I couldn't face the quizzical look Tongans more often than not give Palagis (yes, even the half caste kind like me) when they venture into the territory usually frequented by Tongans and Tongans alone - something just held me back.  So, with my friend Jen here on her 2nd visit it was was the perfect opportunity to skip the tourist guff and do what we do best - find amazing stuff to eat!

Jen outside vilovilo

Yep, there are a multitude of bbq outlets in Tonga.  A few of them are ok (special mention to Talahiva on hala Taufa'ahau doing its best to bring KFC to the kingdom with its amazing Kentucky, and which pays homage to Nandos by having a sink for hand-washing - a sure sign its eat-with-hands-not-utensils territory).

Sabrina's is a different beast.  It's so heavenly we are not even worthy to step inside - oh no, we must talk through a wire screen door, which only opens for your money to be whisked away from you, and for the  succulent carnivorous delights to be passed on for devouring. 

If you peek through the front window you can see the different cuts of meant being cooked by vilovilo (rotisserie) over burning hot coals.  One dedicated figure sits in the tropical, smokey heat watching the coals, ensuring the remain in the ultimate roasting state.   And although I loathe to mention such a thing, it has to be one of the more, er..healthier ways to eat meat in the kingdom, given the excess fat drips off to the coals below. 

At TOP$5 for chicken, and a fraction more for sipi, and puaka its a perfect option for a snack at the beach, a quick dinner....or...just a snack (ok, I'll admit - a Tongan sized snack).

If you want to eat and run, there are tables outside where you can watch the vilovilo while you eat.  With the makeshift bingo hall right across the road, 'eating in' at Sabrina's becomes an educational experience as you listen the Tongan numbers being fired out across the haze. What more could you ask for?

Where to find Sabrina's?

* One Way Rd/Railway Rd, Nuku'alofa (almost at the intersection with Wellington Rd)
* At the Saturday morning fair on the waterfront on Hala Vuna (follow the whiff of bbq and look for the rotisserie trailer opposite the Red dairy/falekoloa).

What better way to start the day...

than with pastry, cream, chocolate - that delightful holy trinity of dessert foods and, as you'll soon come to realise, breakfast ingredients!

It all started when my lovely friend Maiken came to town in July 2011, in an attempt to escape the dastardly Wellington winter.  It's safe to say we indulged mightily in the gastric delights of the island. And the reason was, it was winter.  Well, in Wellington, at least. And sadly, the Kingdom failed to pull out the golden rays, so it was a pretty average week of weather.  And we needed to get our winter layers of blubber on. Stat.

One night, we dined out at Waterfront Restaurant.  A visit to Waterfront (Hala Vuna/Vuna Rd) is a must if you are living in Tonga and want to take visitors to an eatery with modern (ok, modern for Tonga) interiors, lovely friendly staff, and fantastic italian inspired food. It has quirky modern art on the walls, and some luscious,  to-die-for Gauguin inspired prints displayed.   It's not cheap, which sadly makes it out of reach for the average Tongan living on local wages - unless for an extra special treat - as mains start from about TOP $25-$28.  Waterfront also has a number of great hotel rooms on the second floor, so if you ever need a bed (albeit at TOP$200+/per night) you should definitely take a look.

But back to the food.  I tend to be a repeat-offender when it comes to restaurant/cafe eating. That is, once I find something I love at a restaurant, I can't go past it when I return. Time and time again. At Waterfront, if we're talking entrees, its the french onion soup.  Mains, its gotta be the mushroom steak with mash and veges.Every.Single.Time.  (except one, and I won't make the same mistake twice).  And for dessert, I look no further than the fat and fluffly, creamy centred, dripping in chocolate, trample-your-child-to-get-to-them profiteroles. The tiramisu isn't bad either. But back to the 'roles.

The thing is, if you have a starter and a main, there is no way you are fitting in dessert. Period. But that doesn't matter.  Order the profiteroles. Order them. Do it. DO IT.  Have a couple, you can do it - just squeeze them in - and take the rest home. Which is what Maiken and I did. 

Now I've heard many explanations for the term 'morning glory' some of them er...a bit hard to swallow. But the true glory of the morning is waking up, and realising that you had a fit of brilliance the night before to ignore the protests of your bulging waist line, and order profiteroles to go.   

Now.  Here's the best way to proceed:

- grind some coffee beans and make a fresh brew.  Make sure the beans are Tongan (sorry, L'affare!) Tupu'anga is my favourite, but Kingdom Koffee or the Friends blend will do just as nicely.
- take the profiteroles out of the refridgerator and get them to room temperature (warning: this will be where the biggest temptation lies- you're hungry, they're oh so juicy and creamy, but you gotta wait for the coffee - it's worth it I promise)
- set the table. I mean it. Set the table. Make sure it's in a spot where the morning sun is on you. And use some Tongan inspired placemats and food trays . It makes all the difference.
- Now for the eating. Pour the coffee. Use your fingers.  Reach for the profiterole.  Take a bite, take a sip of coffee.  And repeat. And repeat. And repeat. Until you feel your insides smiling, you're hearing the angels chorus (or maybe that's the church singing from down the way) and you want to call a friend and tell them how lucky you are to be alive. 

Now that's what I call morning glory.  Thanks Maiken (and Jen, and Matt and Jess (even though you couldn't keep your eyes open), for sharing it with me!

Cxx