Spontaneous lunch feasts...that's how we do it in Tonga

Nothing brings happiness to my heart like hearing the words, "Ches, the kaipola is ready"!

Puaka tunu and talo

There's a lot of special things that come to mind when I think about Tongans and food, but making the top five is their ability to produce a spontaneous lunch feast for many at very short notice. 

At our office, the local staff take turns to provide lunch for all  - anything from kale, to bbq, to home cooking that someone's mum has whipped up the night before - always plentiful, and always sai 'aupito.  

Today we were graced by the generosity of our outgoing High Commissioner and his lovely wife (malo, malo) who, on their day off to pack, took time to give us a basket of goodies to enjoy in their absence. We indulged in baked talo, fish, feke and of course, gorgeous, mouth-watering puaka tunu.

 

Fish head



What better way to cheer us up here at work, just when we were all feeling just that little bit sorry for ourselves having to work today while the rest of Tonga enjoys the public holiday in honour of the birthday of the Crown Prince.



Mmm...trotters

I'll keep this one brief and let the pictures do the talking!


Feke parcel

 

Ifo 'aupito xx







Magic Juice

I'm feeling very pious right now having just joined a 6 week exercise programme. Yes only six weeks, but hey, small steps. Clawing at the turf of Teufaiva isn't the only thing I have been doing.  I've also gotten my hooks into a plethora of online articles about the latest wonder foods and miracle health fixes, some of which you'll be pleased to know are readily available right here in the Kingdom.

Let's start with niu mata. Surely you've caught up with the coconut water craze gripping celebrities.  Who would be seen dead clutching a little adopted african baby ( so 2010)?! Instead the latest accessory of choice is a hairy bolder filled with miracle juice.  There are many amazing facts about the uses of coconut water - apparently it even used to be used as an infusion into bodies affected by war, in the place of plasma. The funniest story though comes from my bubu, who tells me that in Tanzania no one would be seen dead drinking coconut water, in fear of being fatefully struck down by an affliction which would see parts of their (male) nether regions bulging to resemble coconuts. The mind boggles! 

And then there's noni juice -  famed to cure everything from cold sores to cancer. The noni fruit - also rather unfortunately referred to as 'dog dumpling' tastes disgusting (yes, I actually tried it raw.  In sheer desperation suffering from cold sores, while walking in Sopu I yanked some off a bush and took a nibble. I won't do that again). But if you're shopping around in health stores, you can find it sweetened to make it just that little bit more palatable.

But my favourite is 'Apele Initia,  Indian Apple or Soursop.  A fruit of beautiful contradiction - swollen, full and heart-shaped, yet slightly spiky,  repelling your touch.   It's fruit drips from trees right about now.  I love splitting its flesh open down the centre of its heart and sucking the tangy pulp from its pips - and don't be shy about it - the pip-spitting just adds to the experience!  Fresh is great - the sorbet sourness of the pulp with a hint of sweetness helps you get past the thick, silky texture. But frozen is just as great!  Scoop out spoonfuls of the pulp into a container and freeze.  When you're ready for a tangy cooler, just chip some off, whizz in a blender, and enjoy just like a slushy.

Indian Apple is claimed to be a remedy for a long list of ailments, much the same as noni. You can find the fruit around - usually in Fanga, or at Talamahu markets in plentiful supply at various times throughout the year. About TOP3-5 for one or two, depending on how ripe the fruit is getting. Look for a fruit with a bright green colour and you'll know its starting to sweeten.Walk through the markets in Tonga and you see Vai Apele India in bottles of all shapes and sizes, with colour and taste...er...variation on as broad a spectrum - I imagine - not having quite plucked up the courage to imbibe of some myself!

Instead, I have dedicated myself to creating my very own inu Apele India miracle sip!  After a few squats, lunges, sprints (ok, jogs...) one sure works up a thirst! Here's to the latest wonder-cure apple of my eye!

For four medium cocktails you'll need:

4 shots of vodka

4 shots of cointreau

4 scoops of frozen apele india

2-3c apple juice

a few sprigs of mint

a twist of lime

ice

Combine altogether in a blender. Pulse until ice and apele india has pulped.  Pour into margarita glasses, serve with a straw, twist of lime and an extra sprig of mint.

Best served after a brisk jog.

It might not be Singapore, but it's something!

It's been around a few weeks now, but Singapore Restaurant is officially my FAVOURITE new eating place in Nuku'alofa. Why? Let me break it down for you. It's cheap. It's cooler inside than it is outside. It has a drinks fridge. And it's plugged in. It has a food warmer. With a heat lamp. And its plugged in. And it actually keeps food warm. It's got tables and chairs, tissues, good lighting, and its CLEAN. There's at least 10 reasons to try it out, and that I haven't even gotten to the food!

Yes, granted, Singapore Restaurant has the usual suspects on the menu:  Kentucky and Manioke, Burgers, Fish 'n' chips.  And no, they don't have the list of asian dishes I'd have loved and expected to feature in a place named as such (kway teow, mabo dofu, singapore fried noodles, laksa...), but the point is, everything this place does IS...GOOOD!
                        
And yes there is a certain familiar comfort in the fact that there are some things that never change about asian kitchens (with or without the requisite dishes) such as the neon lighting, efficient service, tissues, plastic chairs, cans of drink with foreign contents that taste better than you can imagine (yes, try the pineapple with coconut chunks - sweet and chewy all at once - only $1.70)  and a rice cooker big enough to bathe a baby in.

So, let's recall my last visit. We arrived at 630pm on a Thursday. People were already eating, and the trade was steady. A good sign.  We ordered the fish 'n' chips, and a burger.  And we did have to wait a bit, but I took this as a good sign that everything was being freshly prepared. And I was right. The fish was fresh and crispy, the burger still glistening with fry fat and goodness.  The chips were hot and crispy (maybe they should invest/recreate KFC chicken salt - that would be a perfect addition). And we were happy.  And there was the cute addition of the cucumber rounds hollowed out to hold this wonderful garlic mayo.

After my friend and neighbour from Fangaloto, Tatiana, uttered with the utmost sincereity, "It's not 'like' KFC hot wings, it IS KFC hot wings" I just had to try the kentucky. And Tats, I think you are almost right! It's hot, spicy and crispy. And you get fries! All I needed was a moist towelette and I would be seeing visions of the Colonel in the Kingdom. Well. One can only dream.





















Check it out:
*Hala Fatafehi, first intersection past NZ Immigration /Royco building if you're heading towards the lagoon

Sabrina....how I love thee....

One of the best things I have come to appreciate about living on a tropical island away from your family and friends has to be having them come to visit.  Not only do I get to share the experiences and tastes that have me talking to myself and see me returning for the second day in a row for a little something something, but I get to try those places I haven't quite plucked up the courage to on my own.

SABRINAS falls into the latter category - a bbq outlet I knew was amazing, having many Saturday mornings eaten its delicious product from the makeshift car trailer-come-bbq-rotisserie, but  one whose 'real home' I had never quite managed to get to.  Blame the one way road system,  the queues of hungry Tongans which are forever lined up at lunchtime (or anytime actually), or just the fact that I couldn't face the quizzical look Tongans more often than not give Palagis (yes, even the half caste kind like me) when they venture into the territory usually frequented by Tongans and Tongans alone - something just held me back.  So, with my friend Jen here on her 2nd visit it was was the perfect opportunity to skip the tourist guff and do what we do best - find amazing stuff to eat!

Jen outside vilovilo

Yep, there are a multitude of bbq outlets in Tonga.  A few of them are ok (special mention to Talahiva on hala Taufa'ahau doing its best to bring KFC to the kingdom with its amazing Kentucky, and which pays homage to Nandos by having a sink for hand-washing - a sure sign its eat-with-hands-not-utensils territory).

Sabrina's is a different beast.  It's so heavenly we are not even worthy to step inside - oh no, we must talk through a wire screen door, which only opens for your money to be whisked away from you, and for the  succulent carnivorous delights to be passed on for devouring. 

If you peek through the front window you can see the different cuts of meant being cooked by vilovilo (rotisserie) over burning hot coals.  One dedicated figure sits in the tropical, smokey heat watching the coals, ensuring the remain in the ultimate roasting state.   And although I loathe to mention such a thing, it has to be one of the more, er..healthier ways to eat meat in the kingdom, given the excess fat drips off to the coals below. 

At TOP$5 for chicken, and a fraction more for sipi, and puaka its a perfect option for a snack at the beach, a quick dinner....or...just a snack (ok, I'll admit - a Tongan sized snack).

If you want to eat and run, there are tables outside where you can watch the vilovilo while you eat.  With the makeshift bingo hall right across the road, 'eating in' at Sabrina's becomes an educational experience as you listen the Tongan numbers being fired out across the haze. What more could you ask for?

Where to find Sabrina's?

* One Way Rd/Railway Rd, Nuku'alofa (almost at the intersection with Wellington Rd)
* At the Saturday morning fair on the waterfront on Hala Vuna (follow the whiff of bbq and look for the rotisserie trailer opposite the Red dairy/falekoloa).

What better way to start the day...

than with pastry, cream, chocolate - that delightful holy trinity of dessert foods and, as you'll soon come to realise, breakfast ingredients!

It all started when my lovely friend Maiken came to town in July 2011, in an attempt to escape the dastardly Wellington winter.  It's safe to say we indulged mightily in the gastric delights of the island. And the reason was, it was winter.  Well, in Wellington, at least. And sadly, the Kingdom failed to pull out the golden rays, so it was a pretty average week of weather.  And we needed to get our winter layers of blubber on. Stat.

One night, we dined out at Waterfront Restaurant.  A visit to Waterfront (Hala Vuna/Vuna Rd) is a must if you are living in Tonga and want to take visitors to an eatery with modern (ok, modern for Tonga) interiors, lovely friendly staff, and fantastic italian inspired food. It has quirky modern art on the walls, and some luscious,  to-die-for Gauguin inspired prints displayed.   It's not cheap, which sadly makes it out of reach for the average Tongan living on local wages - unless for an extra special treat - as mains start from about TOP $25-$28.  Waterfront also has a number of great hotel rooms on the second floor, so if you ever need a bed (albeit at TOP$200+/per night) you should definitely take a look.

But back to the food.  I tend to be a repeat-offender when it comes to restaurant/cafe eating. That is, once I find something I love at a restaurant, I can't go past it when I return. Time and time again. At Waterfront, if we're talking entrees, its the french onion soup.  Mains, its gotta be the mushroom steak with mash and veges.Every.Single.Time.  (except one, and I won't make the same mistake twice).  And for dessert, I look no further than the fat and fluffly, creamy centred, dripping in chocolate, trample-your-child-to-get-to-them profiteroles. The tiramisu isn't bad either. But back to the 'roles.

The thing is, if you have a starter and a main, there is no way you are fitting in dessert. Period. But that doesn't matter.  Order the profiteroles. Order them. Do it. DO IT.  Have a couple, you can do it - just squeeze them in - and take the rest home. Which is what Maiken and I did. 

Now I've heard many explanations for the term 'morning glory' some of them er...a bit hard to swallow. But the true glory of the morning is waking up, and realising that you had a fit of brilliance the night before to ignore the protests of your bulging waist line, and order profiteroles to go.   

Now.  Here's the best way to proceed:

- grind some coffee beans and make a fresh brew.  Make sure the beans are Tongan (sorry, L'affare!) Tupu'anga is my favourite, but Kingdom Koffee or the Friends blend will do just as nicely.
- take the profiteroles out of the refridgerator and get them to room temperature (warning: this will be where the biggest temptation lies- you're hungry, they're oh so juicy and creamy, but you gotta wait for the coffee - it's worth it I promise)
- set the table. I mean it. Set the table. Make sure it's in a spot where the morning sun is on you. And use some Tongan inspired placemats and food trays . It makes all the difference.
- Now for the eating. Pour the coffee. Use your fingers.  Reach for the profiterole.  Take a bite, take a sip of coffee.  And repeat. And repeat. And repeat. Until you feel your insides smiling, you're hearing the angels chorus (or maybe that's the church singing from down the way) and you want to call a friend and tell them how lucky you are to be alive. 

Now that's what I call morning glory.  Thanks Maiken (and Jen, and Matt and Jess (even though you couldn't keep your eyes open), for sharing it with me!

Cxx

A love affair begins…

I am lucky enough to find myself right now living in the Kingdom of Tonga.  Why do I consider myself lucky? Well, it's close to NZ, only a 2.5hr flight away from the place I call home,  I am also able to live and work in a country that is a part of me through the heritage of one of my parents, not to mention Tonga is also home to some of the most amazing beaches and swimming spots you can find in the Pacific - and yes, maybe even in the World.

When I am thinking about the best holiday destinations, or if I am hunting for a place to live, the criteria can generall be distilled down to a couple of things - crystal clear waters, amazing tropical heat, of course and near the very top of that list is having good places to eat nearby and knowing how to get their fast.   But the thing about travelling to a new country, is unless you have a local or a friend to parade you around their favourite haunts, the best of the best scenic spots, and of course to the ultimate eating spots, it can be hard going finding exactly what you are after - even if you don't quite know that is.

So, let me be that "friend", and I'll take you on a little tour of some of my favourite, and maybe not-so-favourite places to eat, and show you a snapshot of the amazing produce and ingredients that you can find right here in the Kingdom, and of course a selection of the most mind-blowingly (yes, for the purposes of this blog, it's a word!) tasty local delights!

I hope you enjoy x